Classic eyelash extensions are famous for their natural look. Classic lashing is also the foundation of all lash application techniques. A lot goes into creating a lash set that achieves your client’s desired effect. But whatever their request is—whether it’s a barely-there look or something fuller—you can bring it to life as long as you have this basic skill down.
If you're an aspiring lash tech looking to build a thriving career, you should start by learning classic lashing. Let's dive into classic lashes, how they differ from other lash techniques, and how to create a good classic lash set for your client!
Should I get classic or hybrid lashes or volume lashes? Some of your clients may have pondered on this issue before coming for help. Since they're unfamiliar with the different lash extensions, you have to explain and help them make good decisions.
Let's clear the confusion by comparing the different types of lash extensions.
Classic eyelash extensions are basic techniques, whereas volume lashes are more advanced. This isn't to say that classic lashes are as easy as ABC.
How they look is also significantly different. Classic lashes appear more natural, while volume lashes are more dramatic. Here's why.
• Classic lashes follow a 1:1 ratio. It means placing one lash extension on a single natural lash, which makes the overall look appear more natural to the eyes.
• Volume lashes are grouped into "fans" when applied to natural lashes. A volume fan refers to multiple lightweight lash extensions applied on a single natural lash. This explains their fuller, more dramatic look.
What is the difference between hybrid and classic lash extensions? Combining both techniques, hybrid lashes bridge the gap between classic and volume lashes. This results in a more dramatic appearance than classic lashes but not so much as volume lashes.
One example from our classic course is the criss-cross look. We apply two 0.10- or 0.12-mm lash extensions on each natural lash. Then, we use the painting method to mould it in a Y shape.
What is the difference between hybrid and classic lash extensions? Combining both techniques, hybrid lashes bridge the gap between classic and volume lashes. This results in a more dramatic appearance than classic lashes but not so much as volume lashes.
One example from our classic course is the criss-cross look. We apply two 0.10- or 0.12-mm lash extensions on each natural lash. Then, we use the painting method to mould it in a Y shape.
A vague idea of a "natural look" is not enough to make a lash set. There are four classic lash styles to choose from, and you must be familiar with them to help your client find a suitable look. Here's a preview of the different classic lash styles.
1. Open eye is a style that follows your client's natural eye shape. It's a mixture of short and long lashes that look very natural. This suits clients with full and relatively long natural lashes.
2. Butterfly is a trendy lash style resembling a butterfly's fluttering wings, especially when you bat your lashes.
3. Dolly eye’s luxurious style resembles a doll’s eyelashes. It makes your client's eyes look bigger and rounder, perfect for small eye shapes.
4. Cat eye, an in-demand lash style, is about sporting a winged, sultry, and sexy look. The lash extensions on the outer corner of the eyes appear longer.
Not all classic lash styles will suit any eye shape. This is why a lash tech must recognize their client's eye shape and pick a style that complements it.
Eye shapes come in different depths, sets, and planes.
• Almond Eyes — It's the most flexible eye shape and suits any lash style.
• Round Eyes — This eye shape requires a style capable of reducing roundness and elongating the eyes instead. Use butterfly or cat eye for this one.
• Elongated Eyes — A dolly will suit this long and thin eye shape common among East Asians.
• Close-Set Eyes — This eye set has a narrow space between the two eyes' inner corners. A classic lash style like butterfly or cat eye will expand or elongate that space.
• Far-Set Eyes — This eye set has a bigger space in between the inner eye corners. As opposed to close-set eyes, you need a dolly or open eye style to reduce this space. Choosing between the two depends on the distance of their eyes.
• Monolid Eyes — This eye depth is common among East Asians. They have no creases, causing the natural lashes to push downwards and the upper eyelid to cover a part of them. Use a CC or L curl (more on lash curls in the next section) in your lash set to make them look more open.
• Deep-Set and Hooded Eyes — This eye depth that makes the brow bone outline more prominent. The eyes are deep in the eye socket, making the eyelids seem to be swallowing the lash lines underneath. An open style will fit this shape.
• Upturned Eyes — This eye shape has an upward-facing outer corner, forming a natural cat eye. B or C curl would be appropriate as it won't emphasize the ascending angle.
• Downturned Eyes — This eye plane is descending, with the inner eye corners sitting slightly higher than the outer corners. This eye shape has straight lashes on the outer corners, so use a butterfly lash style to lift them. An open style can also work.
Once you identify the client's eye shape, look at the lash curl next. This will also affect the way you create a classic lash set. There are nine types of lash curls.• Flat Curl — Completely flat and lightweight• I Curl — Subtly flat curl popular with male clients• J Curl — Flat but not as flat as the first two curls• C Curl — Has a universal structure• B Curl — Less curly than C and used as a base curl• CC Curl — Slightly curlier than C and ideal for deep-set and hooded and monolid eyes• D Curl — Ideal curl for very straight natural lashes and downward eyes• L Curl — Has a straight base and is ideal for monolid eyes• M Curl — Can lift very straight natural lashes and droopy eyes
Lash diameter refers to the thickness of the lashes. A certified lash tech must use the same thickness of lash extensions as the client's natural lashes or 1 mm thicker. There are six standard lash diameters, but let's focus on what you can use for classic lash sets.• 0.10 and 0.12 mm — Ideal for classic or hybrid sets, depending on the natural lash thickness• 0.15 mm — Used for classic sets only
Natural lashes differ in length and strength. The shorter lashes are in the inner and outer corners, so they are easily stressed when people sleep on their sides. Baby lashes are also weak and can't handle a certain lash extension length and thickness. This is why measuring the length of your client's natural lashes is essential before deciding what extensions to use in the lash set. Here are some rules to remember
• Use short and thin lash extensions on the inner and outer corners. Doing this will make the client more comfortable, prevent lash overstress, and prolong the extensions' life span.
• Never use an extension over 2 mm longer than the lash’s natural length.
Example: A client with short and thin natural lashes on the outer corner wants a classic cat eye. This might not be appropriate because cat eye requires strong natural lashes. Try recommending butterfly, which offers a similar look to cat eye. Place the longest extensions under the brow’s arch and the small, thin, and short ones on the outer corner.
If your client is an office worker, create a lash set appropriate for a professional setting. In this case, classic lash extensions are the right choice. The open eye is especially perfect because it gives a natural effect.
That said, be sure to consider your client's request. Give them your expert opinion, but ultimately give them the lash look that they want if it doesn’t pose a health risk. Always balance satisfying your client and ensuring their safety.
So there you have it! You're all set to give your lash client the perfect "woke up like this" mascara look with classic eyelash extensions. Remember everything we've covered in this blog to stay on track and provide a satisfying experience for your client!
Beauty Boss Academy offers The Classic Course for those who want to learn classic lashing. It covers everything from lash theory and safety to the application process and aftercare instructions.
No knowledge and experience? No problem. This course is perfect for aspiring beginners. You will have the opportunity to gain classic lash application skills under the guidance of experienced lash artists and with the support of our VIP community.
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