What makes a great lash extension set? Many factors go into creating one, but the first step is carefully preparing your client's lashes. This involves cleaning the natural lashes and setting them up for easier and better lash extension application.
Lash preparation ensures that the natural lash contains no oil and wax for better retention. It allows the lash adhesive to bond with the lashes better and, from a health standpoint, prevents certain eye conditions.
Here's a guide on lash preparation so that you can apply the best lash set for your clients!
Let's begin with the tools and products you need for lash prepping and cleansing. These tools cover all stages we will discuss in the following sections.
• Water-based makeup remover
• Foam lash shampoo
• Saline solution (Buy one from a pharmacy and never attempt to DIY your mixture).
• Tissues
• Cotton swabs
• Fibre-free cleansing wands
• Paper tape
• Eye patches or pads
• Primer
• Microtips
• Marker
You should advise your client to arrive at the appointment without makeup on. But whether or not they show up with makeup, you still need to perform pre-service lash cleansing before applying eyelash extensions. Here's how.
First, cover your client's hair using a clean towel. It will help keep it from getting in the way of the lash service. It will also protect the hair in case anything spills or drops during the procedure.
Get a cotton swab and dip it into the water-based makeup remover. Then, gently remove your client's makeup, wiping around the eye area, including concealer under their eyes.
Pro tip: If the client has lash extensions on, use a fibre-free cleansing wand and dip it into the makeup remover before applying. This ensures no fibre from standard cotton swabs will stick to the bond of the lash extensions or pull off the lashes, making the removal difficult.
In your journey as a lash technician, you will meet clients getting lash extensions for the first time. The thought of using unfamiliar products and tools on their eyes might make them nervous. So briefly explain to your client what you will do before performing the actual cleansing. It's reassuring to know what you're in for.
Pick a side to cleanse first and tilt your client's head to that side. Then, apply one or two pumps of lash shampoo to the eye and use a cotton swab to clean the lashes gently. Start from the lash line, and work across the entire eye up to the eyelid. When the foam disappears, add more cleanser and repeat the process.
When done right, this step is an enjoyable part of the process. Your client will feel like they're having a lash massage!
Look for any remaining foam shampoo and absorb it with a tissue. Then, use your saline solution to rinse the eye until there is no foam left. We recommend saline instead of distilled or tap water because it doesn't irritate the eyes. It's a medical formula that contains salt and has the same pH level as our eyes, which is why it's safer and more comfortable.
Use tissues to dry the eye and repeat the steps on the other eye.
After cleansing the eyes and natural lashes, cut and apply tapes and eye patches next. Here's what you should know about these tools.
Taping lets you hold down the client's lower natural lashes and separate them from the upper lashes for better lash application. It also lets you lift the upper eyelid and view the lash roots better.
There are two types of tape used for lash extension application.
• Paper tape
• Medical tape
Paper tape usually comes in standard size with plenty of material and colour options. They're also inexpensive and easy to find. The downside is that it’s very sharp; if you’re not careful when applying it to your client's eyes, you may cut their waterline. Their eyes will turn red, the waterline will swell, and they will experience a tingling feeling after the lash procedure.
We recommend using low-sensitivity paper tape to reduce the risk of irritation.
As for eye patches, there are two types for lash extension application:
• Gel eye patches
• Silicon eye patches
Gel patches are easy to buy and have more variety. The larger sizes provide enough space for lash mapping. However, they are costly and pose a higher risk of allergic reactions or irritation of the sensitive skin around the eyes.
We recommend making your own eye patches out of 3M medical foam tape because it's accessible, safe, and doesn't cause allergic reactions. You can also cut it into any shape for a secure fit.
Here's how to cut and make your own eye patches with tape.
1. Prepare parchment paper and use it as the base of the eye patches.
2. Grab your parchment paper, scissors, and 3M tape.
3. Apply the 3M tape on the parchment paper.
4. Use scissors to cut on a slight curve resembling the lower lash line. 3M is stretchy, so don't worry about not cutting a perfect shape!
5. Store the finished eye patches in a container by your lash station. Then, keep the rest in a ziplock bag for future use.
Here are tips to take note of when applying paper tapes and eye patches.
Proper Placement of Under-Eye Pads
Tell your client to open their eyes and look upwards. Press down the lower eyelashes with the eye pad and begin from the inner corner. Place the eye pad on the lower lashes and cover as many of the lower lashes as possible. If you still can't cover all of them, use paper tape to fix the rest.
Pro tip: If the upper eyelashes are too straight and get in the way of taping the lower eyelashes, use a finger to hold them up. Your fingers can also serve as your tools; ensure to clean and sanitize your hands beforehand.
Using the Paper Tape
Paper tapes are sticky. The skin surrounding your client's eye area is the most delicate skin of the human body. If you want to use paper tape directly on it, reduce the stickiness of the tape on your tweezer before taping the eye area.
Removing the Under-Eye Pad
The under-eye patch may stay on the eye area for up to 2 hours. Sometimes, it can be very sticky and painful when you peel it off the skin, so do it slowly, starting from the inner eye corner. One hand should hold the skin, and the other should pull the eye pad gently.
When peeling the paper tape on the eyelids, do it slowly and in a downward motion. Again, use one hand to hold the skin and the other to peel the tape off. Be careful not to peel off the client's eyebrows. Always leave a small gap when applying tape to that area.
Working on the Inner Corners
The inner eye corner is the most challenging area for applying lash extensions because the natural lashes are too close to the skin and nose bridge. You can place the paper tape outwards to get the inner lash roots to show. Then, press your isolation tweezer down on the 3M eye patch. The eye pad is stretchy and thick, so this won’t hurt your client.
Securing the Lower Eyelashes
Cut the paper tape into small pieces to ensure the lower lashes won't get in the way of the application. Tape the lower eyelashes that the under-eye pad couldn't cover before. Keep in mind that the paper tape is sharp, so you must not apply it too close to the client's lash line. Most importantly, always ask your client if it feels comfortable before applying lash extensions.
When a Client's Eyes Are Fluttering or Partially Opened
You might encounter clients who need help relaxing or talking too much during the appointment. It can cause their eyes to flutter and hamper a smooth lash application process. Here are some helpful tips to make them comfortable.
• Create a relaxing environment. Play soothing music, provide a cozy blanket, serve warm tea, or use essential oil for relaxation.
• Use a slightly heavier eye patch than a 3M eye pad on the upper lid if the fluttering continues.
• Tape down the eyes to force them to close.
• Provide disposable contact lenses to protect the eyeballs from exposure to adhesive fumes and prevent irritation. Your client should wear them during the appointment and remove them right after the service.
After placing the eye pads, prepare the lash primer next. This is the last step before the lash extension application. It ensures zero residue or oils on the client's natural lashes and opens up the cuticle of the hair, producing good adhesive bond and retention.
Here's how to prime your client's lashes.
1. Get a small cup and two micro tips.
2. Spray a pump of primer into the cup and dip the two micro tips into it.
3. Hold one micro tip in front of the eyelashes and the other at the back.
4. Apply primer evenly from the lash root to their tips. Avoid touching the skin with primer or getting it in their eyes.
5. Let it dry, and brush the natural lashes to separate them individually before applying eyelash extensions.
Eyelash extension application is a very detailed process, and it starts with ensuring that the client's lashes are clean and prepped enough to make things work. When done right, the lash set will adhere well, and your client will get the most of their lash investment.
Where can I get lash training done? There's no need to search further because Beauty Boss Academy is here! Aside from lash courses, BBA also offers business courses to equip you with skills you’ll need throughout your beauty boss journey, like getting hired and communicating with clients.
Join Beauty Boss Academy today to access our courses on eyelash extensions! See you soon, future lash stylist!
Friday, December 01, 2023
Friday, December 01, 2023
If you are planning to make a career as an eyelash technician, there are a few things you need to know even after undergoing training. We've gathered some common questions about lash technician licensing regulations that aspiring lash artists ask so that you don't have to look for them one by one.
Friday, December 01, 2023
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