Ever had a client walk in and ask for a Kim Kardashian lash makeover? It’s one of many advanced eyelash extension styles, and you can't achieve them with basic lash knowledge alone. You’ll want to expand your skill set.
If you've already built your foundation skills by learning about classic lashes, it's time to up your lashing game. Your next step is to learn how to apply volume lash extensions.
Volume lash extensions give a fuller and more dramatic look. They consist of fans—multiple extensions applied on a single natural lash.
Popular lash styles include the wispy eye, the wet look, and the M/L curl eyeliner style. Many clients will request these styles, especially if they're prepping for a special occasion. To choose the best eyelash extension style for your client, you need to consider some factors.
What eyelash extension is good for my eyes? A great lash artist can answer this after considering various factors. It's more complex than just making your client choose a style they like. Let's discuss these factors.
No two pairs of eyes are the same. A lash technician must understand this to find a style that will suit their client well. Even if all lash styles look appealing, they will look best on the right eye shape.
Examining your client's eye shape involves looking at the eye depth, eye set (distance), and eye plane (ascending or descending inner and outer corners).
The nine common eye shapes are:
• Almond eyes
• Round eyes
• Elongated eyes
• Monolid eyes
• Deep-set & hooded eyes
• Close-set eyes
• Far-set eyes
• Upward-turned eyes
• Downward and drooping eyes
Different types of lash curls influence the lash style that fits your client. These curls vary depending on the growth of their natural lashes.
Lash curls are classified into single letters: I, J, C, B, CC, D, L, and M curls. The straightest type is called the flat lash.
The length of the lash extensions makes up a lash style. Match them to the length of your client's natural eyelashes. For example, the shortest ones are 6 mm, 7 mm, and 8 mm. Shorter lengths are recommended for the inner and outer corners, where the natural lashes are not as strong.
Meanwhile, we can use longer lash extensions in areas with longer and stronger natural lashes. They should, however, not be more than 2 mm longer than the natural lash they are being applied to. The most popular lengths are 9 mm to 13 mm, while 14mm and 15mm are less popular. The maximum length you can use on a client is 16 mm.
Lash diameter refers to the thickness of the lash extensions. There are several diameters to choose from, but the most well-known in the industry are the following (from thinnest to thickest):• 0.03 mm• 0.05 mm• 0.07 mm• 0.10 mm• 0.12 mm• 0.15 mm
Natural lashes vary in length and strength. Never apply any lash extensions without assessing the natural lashes first. For example, don't use a 0.15-mm diameter on a baby lash because it can't handle its weight and thickness. When the baby lashes grow out, they can also affect the lash look. This is something to note when determining what lash style best suits your client.
Their surroundings influence their lash styling; ask your client about their everyday living, working, or recreational space. Volume lash extensions might be unsuitable for their place of work. These can be too dramatic for a professional setting, so classic, natural styles are a better choice.
Of course, we can't skip the client's preference. What type of lash look do they want? Do you have any suggestions about their request?
If the client is looking for ideas, show them your services on a lash display. You may also provide a photo gallery on your website to help your clients make informed style decisions before the appointment. Discuss your options during a pre-session client consultation to make sure they leave your lash bar looking their best.
Volume eyelash extensions have so many possibilities. Let’s break down three unique styles that are sure to make your eyes pop.
Does your client fancy a lash makeover à la Kim Kardashian? Choose wispy eyelash extensions! This style gives off a feather-like effect by mixing wide, short, and narrow fans to complete the lash set.
How to Achieve This Style: Use wide, short fans as the lash set's base. It will add fullness and curls. Then, apply long and narrow volume fans on stronger natural lashes.
Lash Mapping Guide:
1. Start building the lash set with lash extension lengths ranging from 7 to 13 mm.
2. Use CC curls and 7- to 10-mm lengths to create wide fans and a butterfly style.
3. Make narrow fans using C curls and 10- to 13-mm extensions and apply them onto the strongest natural lashes.
Another popular lash style is “The Wet Look”. This style groups lashes into sections to give off a bold and dense appearance. It's the complete opposite of the fluffiness of dry lashes. This lash style is suitable for clients with strong natural lashes that can withstand the weight of the extensions.
How to Achieve This Style: This style relies on density, volume, and dark bases. So use narrow fans to create a dense and dark base, and don’t skimp on them. Then, mix in long and short volume fans to create dips throughout the eyes.
Lash Mapping Guide: If you're familiar with the classic open eye or dolly lash styles, we recommend using either for this lash set. Apply lash extensions (ranging from 7 to 13 mm) to create the set, and ensure that most of the fans you create are narrow.
Use single lash extensions on smaller, shorter lashes to keep them healthy. Then, apply 7-mm lash extensions on the inner and outer corners. Be sure to follow the client's natural lash growth and eye shape.
This volume lash style uses two lash curls perfect for lifting very straight lashes and monolid eye shapes: the M and L curls. It enhances the upward turn of your client's outer eye corners, adding a long, sharp eyeliner effect.
How to Achieve This Style:
1. Start by applying basic lash curls from the inner corner to the middle part of the client's eyes.
2. When you get there, use M/L curls all the way to the outer corner to complete the long and sharp look.
3. Remember to mix in basic curls for a smooth transition zone and avoid stairs (lack of smooth transition between varying curls and lengths).
Lash Mapping Guide: We recommend creating a cat eye set using 7- to 13-mm lash extensions. Add 7- to 10-mm extensions in the client's inner eye corners to the middle areas. Then, apply 11-mm extensions in a basic curl. Mix an M/L curl in the outer middle part and transition zone.
Continue with the M/L curls about 11–13 mm long to create the upward-turned eyeliner effect. Only use thinner and shorter lash extensions on weak natural lashes in the outer corner for healthy growth.
Now that you're familiar with the different styles of volume lash extensions, let's discuss how to take care of them!
Is it any different from the aftercare process of classic eyelash extensions? Yes, but not so much. The difference lies in these two factors:
• Volume lash extensions use more lashes that are thinner, so they need a bit more care.
• The cure duration of volume lashes takes slightly longer than classic lashes.
Apart from that, give the same aftercare advice you would tell your classic lash clients.
• Avoid getting the lashes wet for about four to six hours after the lash application.
• Say no to mascara.
• Apply lash shampoo daily to clean your eyes and lash extensions thoroughly.
• Dry your lashes with a hair dryer on the coldest setting.
• Use a spoolie to gently brush the lashes and keep their shape.
Sometimes, your client may feel afraid to touch and clean their eyes for fear of the extensions falling off. In this case, you must educate them on the importance of proper lash cleansing. This will prevent the buildup of wax, oil, makeup, and other unsafe and unhealthy residues.
If there is an early fallout, you should determine why it happens. It could be due to your client's sleeping position or an issue with your application (e.g., not using enough lash adhesive on the base). Knowing the possible reasons will make fixing or preventing lash fallouts easier.
If you've mastered the art of classic lashing, it's time to advance your lash services! This way, you'll learn more techniques and get more clients searching for advanced eyelash extension styles.
Volume lashing might appear difficult, but it’s not impossible with the proper knowledge and practice. Know its distinct features and the little details that comprise a lovely volume lash set, which includes the considerations discussed in this article. We hope this post has encouraged you to take a step toward upgrading your lash skills!
Learn more about eyelash extension styles in our classic and volume lash courses. We have a dedicated learning path for everyone, whether you’re a lash newbie or an experienced lash artist.
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Friday, December 01, 2023
Friday, December 01, 2023
If you are planning to make a career as an eyelash technician, there are a few things you need to know even after undergoing training. We've gathered some common questions about lash technician licensing regulations that aspiring lash artists ask so that you don't have to look for them one by one.
Friday, December 01, 2023
Do your lash client's eyes resemble almonds? For lash artists, this means the perfect lash style for them is a no-brainer—all of them! Aptly named the almond eye shape, it’s popular for being highly flexible and suitable with any lash extension style. But is that really the case? Continue reading to find out!
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